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Travel Korea: Incheon


Incheon, it's home to an ultra modern airport and the second largest port in Korea, but does this city have anything more to offer? In fact it does. Incheon boarders the capital of Korea and is connected to Seoul via the subway system, which makes it easily accessible. Prior to becoming a port city in 1883, Incheon was home to about 4,700 residents. A far cry from the near 3 million residents of today, which makes it Korea's third largest city after Seoul and Busan.


The history of Incheon dates back to 475 CE and the rule of King Jangsu of Goguryeo, at that time the area was call Michuhol, on top of what is now Munhak Hill (korean). Incheon has gone through many names during different dynasties, including Gyeongwon and Inju, the current name of Incheon became used around 1413.


The opening of the port in Incheon to the outside world helped propel Korea economically and played a key role in the modernization of the country. The city was designated as Korea's first industrial zone to encourage domestic and global companies to settle in the area. The city has also played a role in a number of wars: the first shots of the Russo-Japanese War (1904-1905) were fired in Incheon. During the Korean War, the city was occupied by the North Korean army for a period of about 15 days during September of 1950.


Incheon is also home to Munhak Stadium, a multi-use sports complex that has hosted the FIFA world Cup (2002), Asian Athletic Championships (2005), the Asian Games (2014), and the League of Legends World Championship (2018). The venue is also commonly used for concerts, which is how my weekend in Incheon came about as I was attending Tommorwland Korea and decided to spend my whole weekend in Incheon. I've also been to Incheon just for the day on a separate occasion when my boyfriend at the time wanted to eat Jjangjjangmyeon (짜장면), and so we headed to the best restaurant for it, which is in Incheon's Chinatown, and for a weekend get-away to one of the nearby islands.


Chinatown

Incheon's Chinatown was established around the same time as the port in 1883 as Chinese immigrants made their way to Korea and the port in search of work. Over time, the area fell into dilapidation with many of the residents living in poverty. In recent years the area has been rehabbed and polished up to attract tourists (it was successful). Today's resident's of Chinatown are primarily second and third generation descendants of the original Chinese immigrants. In the past, most of the businesses traded goods imported from China, today, most of the businesses are restaurants and souvenir shops.

Paeru

Chinatown is easy to spot as soon as you exit the subway station, thanks to its massive entry gate. Chinese immigrants believed this gate helped keep ghosts from entering their homes, today it serves mostly as a backdrop for photos.

Korean-Chinese Cultural Center

Built to help facilitate mutual understanding between Koreans and Chinese, the center offers a variety of programs to create cultural understanding. The center hosts performances, exhibitions and a reading room on Korean and Chinese history and culture is available to the public (you'll need to be able to read in either Korean or Chinese to utilize the reading room).

Stairway Between Qing and Japanese Settlements

This prominent staircase in Chinatown was built during the Japanese colonial period to separate the Japanese concession from Chinatown, or as it was known then, a Chinese concession. The stairs connect to Jayu Park (Freedom Park), from the steps you can take in a view that shows the multiple contrasting architectural styles in the area. At the top of the steps there is a statue of Confucius that was donated by the Chinese city of Qingdao.

Samgukji Mural Street

Another find at the top of the stairs is Samgukji Mural Street. The murals on this 150 meter street show depictions from the Chinese novel Legend of Chu and Han, from the late Qin Dynasty and early Han Dynasty. The street is in active use and at times the murals can be hard to see as they are often covered by cars.


Freedom Park

Also called Jayu Park (자유공원), Freedom Park is located at the of the stairs in Chinatown. The park was built to celebrate the end of the Korean War, and features a prominent statue of American General Douglas McArthur, who remains popular in Korea for leading the amphibious attack the drove the North Korean army out Incheon. From the park you can take in views of the harbor, surrounding islands and Incheon.


Songwol-Dong Fairy Tale Village

Sitting directly adjacent to Chinatown is Songwol-Dong Fairy Tale Village. This residential area was settled in the late 19th century by foreigners who cane to work at the nearby port. A thinning population led Songwol-Dong into decline, which resulted in even more of the younger generation moving away. The area was rehabbed with bright murals and art installations that feature characters from Korean folk stories and international fairy tales. There's no end to the photo ops in this colorful neighborhood.


Sinpo Market

A 15 minute walk from Chinatown brings you to Sinpo International Market, one of the oldest traditional markets in Incheon. There was already a thriving trading business in Sinpo-Dong as it had an international port and it saw traffic from numerous countries who traded in the area. Sinpo market gradually grew up and developed around the existing trading business. I'm a big fan of traditional markets, they're prime spots for street photography...and street food. Sinpo Market is full of quirky cafes, shops, and restaurants along with stalls selling food and other goods. Close by to Sinpo Market is Sinpo cultural street, where you can find OEM clothing stores, mills and more general stores.


Incheon Bridge & Yeonan Pier

For photographers, Incheon Bridge and Yeonan Pier are both popular stops. Incheon Bridge

is a 21+ kilometer bridge that is a favorite subject of photographer in Korea at all times of day, with its concrete spires and cables the bridge makes an impressive sight stretching across the water. From Yeonan Pier you can catch views of the port, including cranes loading and unloading cargo, which has made it popular with photographers. One of my Korean friends first turned me onto the pier and took me there to photograph the sunset.


Islands

The summer in Korea can be sweltering, and when the city gets too oppressive, it's time to head for the islands. Korea has a plethora of islands, but for Seoulites the islands off of Incheon are only a bit over an hour away, from a day trip to camping on the beach overnight, see what the islands have to offer

Wolmido

Connected to the mainland by a monorail, highway, and ferry, Wolmido has restaurants, theme park and arts & performance centers on offer, which makes it a popular day trip destination. There are also beautiful coastal walks and the island is home to Wolmi Traditional Park, where you can traditional Korean culture and food.

Muuido

If you're looking for some beach camping on a weekend away, Muuido is the island for you.

beach huts on Muuido

Accessed by ferry, this island has hotels, restaurants, and beach huts available. I have seen people pitch their own tents on the beach as well, when my friends and I visited we opted for one of the beach huts and fit 6 of us into one hut. There are two main beaches, Silmi Beach from which you can also access Silmi Island, and Hanagae Beach. Catching crabs, clams, snails and fish are popular activities at Hanagae Beach where there is a large tidal mud flat that is ideal for these activities.


To Eat

Incheon is a food destinations all on it's own, from Koean food, to western style brunch and Chinese food, Incheon has something for everyone and a variety of great restaurants. If you're after Chinese food, it's best to visit Chinatown on an empty stomach, with a wide variety of restaurants and street food to snack on, it's easy to eat your way from one end to the other.

Jjajangmyeon (짜장면)

One of the most popular dishes to have in Chinatown is Jjajangmyeon, there's even a museum dedicated to it. Thought to have originated in Incheon and based of a Chinese dish (I have definitely had something similar while living in China) Jjagjanymyeon is a black bean noodle dish that enjoys extreme popularity in Korea. There are several different varieties: Jjajangmeyon (짜장면) this is the original version, Ganjjajangmyeon (간짜장면) this version has a thicker sauce with some chunks, Samseon jjajangmyeon (삼선짜장면) this type typically includes a variety of seafood options, Euni jjajangmyeon (유니짜장면) is made with ground meat, usually pork , Jaengban jjajang (쟁반짜장면) in this version the noodles are stir fried before being mixed with the sauce. If you watched the movie Parasite, the noodle dish Jjapaguri, is on offshoot of Jjajangmyeon and is made by combining Jjapagetti and Neoguri noodles with black bean noodle sacue (steak optional). Jjajangmyeon is a popular dish to eat when celebrating birthdays and graduation ceremonies. While numerous restaurants in Chinatown offer this dish, Gong Hwa Chun is one of the most famous restaurants in Korea for enjoying this dish...seriously. One weekend my boyfriend at the time suggested a day in Incheon...so we could eat Jjajangmyeon at this restaurant. It's easy to spot as it's a prominent four-story building right by the Staircase that leads to Smgukji Mural Street.

Dumplings

While you can find more traditional style Chinese dumplings and Goyza, which are both

Oven baked dumplings, a must eat in Chinatown

delicious, the can't miss dumplings in Incheon's Chinatown are oven baked dumplings from Sim Ni Hyang. With options like minced meat, red bean, cheese, and vegetable these dumplings have a super crispy outside and a juicy interior. The line for these dumplings can be quite long but are well worth the wait.

Mooncakes

A popular dish in China to celebrate Mid-Autumn Festival, mooncakes are a traditionally round and filled with a variety of sweet or savory fillings such as red bean and mixed fruit. Called Jungguk Jegwa in Korea, the mooncakes you find in Incheon are much more similar to the mooncakes you find in Taiwan as opposed to China, with fillings such as mango and green tea along with more traditional fillings.

Bubble Tea (Boba Tea)

What better accompaniment to Chinese inspired dishes than bubble tea? Although it originated in Taiwan, bubble tea has become popular in many Asian countries including China, Korea, and Thailand. Bubble Tea is a tea based drink that includes tapioca balls, these days you can choose from a wide variety of boba or bubbles including fruit, coconut, coffee, red bean and green tea. One of the best places to grab a bubble tea is from Lunarssi Kitchen, which has the most authentic Taiwanese bubble tea in Chinatown. Having had bubble tea in Taiwan, I find most bubble teas to be somewhat disappointing, but this one wasn't bad.

Sichuan Cuisine

If you're a fan of spicy food, there are several restaurants in Chinatown that offer Sichuan style cuisine. Well known for it's hot and spicy flavor that comes from a pepper by the same name, many of the most popular dishes from Sichuan Province such as Hot Pot, Hot & Sour Noodles, Kung pao Chicken and Mapo Tofu are served in Incheon. Having lived in Chongqing, which pulls many of its culinary influences from Sichuan, I can attest that the spicy in Sichuan is much hotter than most other spicy foods that I have eaten (and I'm a spicy food lover) .

Brunch

While most people think of Seoul when they want brunch or more western style foods, however, if you're looking to get out of Seoul (even for a day) hopping on the subway to Incheon will take you to a plethora of brunch options. Doré Doré is a popular cafe and brunch spot that is well known for their creative and eye catching cakes and desserts. Brunch Bazar is known for their western style brunch sets, a true western style brunch can be hard to come by in Korea (unless you're in Itaewon). For a truly cozy atmosphere and fusion food Café Blankis, is a great choice. With its selection of Dutch coffees and Tiramisu latte, you may be tempted to hang out for the whole day.


Whether you live in Korea or are just passing through, consider spending a weekend (or more) exploring Incheon and all that the city has to offer besides the airport!

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