While living in Korea I would usually head out to see a new country whenever I had five plus days off. For my summer vacation in 2018, and upon recommendation from my then boyfriend, I ventured down south to explore the port city of Tongyeong. The city is known for its important role in Korea’s maritime past. During the Josen Dynasty, Tongyeong was the headquarters of the Korean navy, the port’s deep waters and the surrounding islands which provide a shield from the wind made it an ideal harbor. Modern Tongyeong’s main economic activity is fishing, followed by the manufacturing of marine products, canning, and shipbuilding. Tongyeong is also famous for its traditional lacquer work,which is inlaid with mother-of-pearl from shellfish harvested in the area. Tongyeong is accessible from Busan, Seoul and other major Korean cities by bus, or you can take the train to Busan and a bus from there.
See and Do
Gangguan Port
The heart of downtown Tongyeong is Gangguan Port, the area has numerous traditional markets nearby, including Jungangfish market, which is similar to Busan’s Jagalchi Fish Market, but on a smaller scale. If you’re an early riser and have ventured down to capture the port at dawn Seoho Traditional Market is a great second stop for both breakfast and street photography. Gangguan Port is home to life sized reconstructions of Geobukseon or Turtle ships. These ships are replicas of traditional warships that were used intermittently by the Royal Korean Navy during the JoesonDynasty from the early 15th century until the 19th century. The name Turtle Ship comes from the protective covering which looks like a shell, these ships are often recognized as the first armored ships in the world. The ships function a bit like a floating museum, you can learn more about the ships, the battles they were used in and even dress up in traditional costumes for some fun snaps.
Dongpirang Mural Village
I have a not so small obsession with mural villages and street art, so I was super excited when
I found out about DongpirangMural Village. Located on the hill above Gangguan Port and once in danger of being destroyed in favor of re-development, it is now a favorite destination for visitors thanks to its spectacular views of the harbor, surrounding islands, and city as well as dozens of beautiful murals done by university art majors. The village is full of cute ice cream shops, quirky cafes, and small restaurants with fun décor.
Jeon Hyuck Lim Museum of Art
I’m an avid fan of art and museums as they’re a great way to learn about the culture, history and people that contribute to the country you’re visiting. Jeon Hyuck Lim (1915 – 2010)was a self-taught artist and spent most of his life in Tongyeong and the sea was one of his favorite subjects and he is most known for his use bold, colorful, abstract landscapes. His painting “Port of Tongyeong” is on display at the K Museum of Contemporary Art (KMCM) has a twin painting that hangs in the presidential office Cheong Wa Dae, after former president Roh Moon-hyun took note of Jeon and his work. The museum is located in the house where Jeon HyuckLim lived for 30 years, with an addition that was built as an art space and opened to the public in 2003.
Eat
While Korean food remains quite consistent across the peninsula, different provinces and cities offer up their unique versions of staple dishes, and sometimes things that are truly local. While seafood in general is a staple element of dishes you find in Tongyeong, there are a few regional variations to try.
Chungmu Gimbap 충무 김밥
Gimbap is a staple of Korean food, cheap and easy to grab it’s convenient both as a snack
and as a meal. Chungmu gimbap differs from most gimbap as rice is the only filling ingredient, the rolls are also thinner, and the seaweed is left unseasoned and it is served with a variety of side dishes such as squid and radish that would usually go into the gimbap. The story around this variation of gimbap is that an unknown fisherman’s wife came up with the idea after sending her husband out for the day with traditional gimbap, only to find that it spoiled easily while sailing. To solve this problem, she made smaller rolls of just rice and kept the filling on the side, and that tradition carries on to this day. The name Chungmucomes from Tongyeong’s original name, which was Chungmu.
Kkulppang 꿀빵
If you’re looking for something a little sweeter, kkulppang or honey bread is the treat for you. While kkulppang is sold around the country Tongyeong kkulppang is noted for lighter and fluffier than its counterparts elsewhere in the country. My Korean friends and co-workers were adamant that I needed to try Tongyeong kkulppang on my trip to the city. Kkulppang was first made and sold by Jeong Wonseok in Tongyeong shortly after the end of the Korean War. Kkulppang is a sticky sweet bread traditionally filled with red bean paste and dusted with sesame seeds, today it is offered with a variety of fillings including sweet cream, Nutella, and green tea. You may want to have plenty of wet wipes on hand when trying these delicacies as they are very sticky.
Island Hopping
Tongyeong is surrounded by several islands that can be accessed by a short ferry ride and offer a variety of charms and activities. The ferry terminal is easy to access by bus or taxi and buying the tickets is straightforward. You can buy round trip tickets or just one way and purchase a return ticket from the ferry office on the island you’re visiting. You will need your passport or ARC (for foreigners living in Korea) to purchase ferry tickets.
Hansando
One of the larger islands and only a short 30 minute ride from Tongyeong, Hansando played
an important role in Korea’s naval history with Japan. The island and surrounding area where the site of the Battle of Hansan Island during the Imjin War, Admiral Yi Sun-Sin lead the Korean navy to victory and following the battle moved his main naval base to the island due to the strategic advantage it provided. Hansando is part of Hallyeo Haesang National Park and is covered in a large forest of red pines and camellias. The forest is home to Jeseungdang Shrine, which was Admiral Yi Sun-Sin’s headquarters and is now dedicated to honoring him. The island also has a number of beaches, including black pebble beaches, where you can collect clams and relax in the water. You can also hike Mt. Mangsan, standing at 293 meters it's not very tall and there are three hiking courses that take 2-3 hours to hike.
Jangsado
One of the most popular islands is Jangsado Island, it’s reachable from both Tongyeong and Geoje Island and is home a sea park. The sea park is known for the camellia flowers that bloom in the winter, hydrangeas in the summer and like Hansando, red pines to stroll in year-round. The island is a popular filming destination for k-dramas, with several iconic shooting locations such as the red bridge from Uncontrollably Fond.
Bijindo
Often referred to as “the island where time stops” Bijindo is home to two villages connected by a single road, but with no cars insight. Bijindo has some unique geological features that attract tourists, the two ends of the island are connected by a long white strip of sand. Tourists wander out to the island to enjoy hiking, the near empty beaches, and what is called some of the best fishing in Korea.
Somaemuldo & Deungdaesum
Somaemuldo and Deungdaesum (lighthouse island) are an hour ferry ride from Tongyeong and are considered some the best islands in Hallyeo Maritime National Park. Somaemuldois known for its costal cliffs with oddly shaped rock formations. Deungdaesum island is a much smaller island, it takes 20 minutes to walk around the island and is home to a lighthouse. Surrounded by clear blue sea, Deungdaesum is often featured in movies and commercials. The light house was built by the Japanese during the Japanese Colonial Period (1910-1945). Somaemuldo and Deungdaesum are connected by a gravel road that is walkable two times a day at low tide. There is a costal hiking trail the allows you to hike from Deungdaesum all the way to the opposite end of Somarmuldo, if you do this hike it’s recommended that you spend the night on the island either by camping or staying in one of the small hotels on the island.
Photography
Tongyeong and the surrounding areas are a landscape photographers delight. With many
vantage points that allow views of the sea and surrounding islands at sunset,architecture, street photography, and fishing boats. Here are some of the top areas in Tongyeong for
Undersea Tunnel
Tongyeong is comprised of an area on the mainland and areas on a few islands, the largest of these islands is Mireukdo. Mireukdo is connected to the mainland by two bridges and an undersea tunnel. The tunnel was completed in 1932 and is Asia’s first submarine tunnel. It’s a great location silhouette photography.
Tongyeong Canal
Built by Japan during their occupation in 1932, TongyeongCanal separates the mainland from Mireukdo. You can find scenic views along both sides of the canal, capture the boat traffic and even find a few piers for insta snaps.
Tongyeong Bridge & Chungmu Bridge
In order to facilitate travel between mainland Tongyeong and the areas of the city on Mirekudo, there are two bridges that are excellent for photography. The more popular of these bridges Tongyeong Bridge, which is larger and is lit up with colorful lights at night. Chungmu Bridge is smaller, but provides a great view of Tongyeong Bridge and
Dara Park
Dara park is a seaside park on a cliff that provides beautiful views of the islands surrounding Tongyeong and is popular for photography of both sunrise and sunset as the park is south facing. If the air condition is good and the sky is clear, it is possible to photograph the stars and milky way at this location.
Hiking
Mireuksan
At 430 meters Mireuksan is hardly the highest peak in the area, it is however, the most
popular. From the top of the mountain you can enjoy sweeping views of the city and the islands that surround Tongyeong. The mountain also boasts a cable car if hiking isn’t your thing. There is also a luge course at the base of the mountain which you can enjoy post hike if you take the cable car down. I skipped the luge on my initial hiking outing to Mireuksan, however, a few days later I was invited to join a group of Koreans staying at my hostel for a morning outing to the luge and cable car up the mountain and it was great fun.
Saryangdo
One of the nearby islands of Saryangdo, offers my favorite hike in the area. It’s not an easy hike with a lot of scrambling up and down rocks, steep staircases and ladder and rope descents. This ridgeline hike will take you over four or five peaks depending on how motivated you are. I’d recommend starting your hike on the far side of the island and hiking back towards the ferry terminal.
While Busan reins as Korea's busiest costal city, many of the smaller port cities on Korea's coast offer up their own surprises and can give you a glimpse of life Korea away from the main crowds.
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