Located about 120km off the west coast of Korea in the Sea of Japan lies,
Korea’s “Mystery Island” Ulleungdo. Ulleungdo is volcanic in origin and has rocky, steep-sided cliffs and is the top of a large stratovolcano which rises from the ocean floor, due to its unusual and volcanic appearance the island is often referred to as Jurrasic Island. It’s estimated that the island has been inhabited since the first millennium BC. The first written reference to the island being in the year 512 during the Silla dynasty, when a general by the name of Kim Isabu conquered the previously autonomous island.
Ulleungdo is only accessible via ferry, with ferries running from Gangneung, Pohang, and Mukho to the island. The sea between the mainland and the island can be quite rough, with ferries often canceled due to poor weather conditions and rough seas, on my trip to Ulleungdo my return ferry, and all ferries were cancelled for four days due to bad weather from a typhoon. Another effect of the rough seas is that sea sickness is quite common on the ferry ride. Sea sickness medicine is readily available for-sale in the ferry terminal. On my trip to the island I did not take any sea sickness medicine and like most of the other people on the ferry spent the three-hour journey quite queasy and dry heaving. On my return journey I did take the sea sickness medicine and it was a much more pleasant trip. The ferries themselves are quite pleasant, there are storage areas for large luggage, a snack bar, and a movie is typically shown during the ride. The seats also have more leg room than airlines so that’s a plus. You can purchase tickets either at the terminal itself, or online via the ferry companies’websites, they are however all in Korean.
Accommodation & Transportation
Ulleungdo is a popular destination for camping and there are three campgrounds on the island. I recommend the Hakpocampground, it’s a little farther away from the two main port towns, and you do need to walk down a hill to access it if you’re not driving. The campground itself is situated on a cliffside and has stunning views of the ocean, especially at sunset. The campground has shower and kitchen facilities, and there is access to drinking water. At the bottom of the cliffthere is a cluster of houses, a pier, a hostel made entirely out of repurposed shipping containers which also has a dive shop and snack bar. The other campgrounds are located closer to the downs, but are right next to the road, so they are much noisier and less scenic. If you would like to camp, but don’t have camping gear you can rent it from either Starcamp or Campingbaksa, you simply select the gear you would like to rent and the duration, the gear is sent to you and at the end of the rental period it is picked up by the same shipping company.
If camping isn’t your cup of tea, the two port towns of Dodong and Jeodong offer plenty of
hostels and pensions. There isn’t really any information available online for any of these establishments available in English and even information in Korean is hard to come by, but they’re easy to find just by walking down the streets. I visited Ulleungdoduring Chuseok, a Korean holiday, and there seemed to still be plenty of availability at the hostels and pensions, so I wouldn’t worry too much about booking ahead.
Ulleungdo has one main road that runs around about ninety percent of the island, all of the towns are situated along this road with the town of Dodong being at one end and Gwaneumdo at the other. There is a bus system that runs around the island, with smaller buses available in certain towns and to reach certain locations. Renting a car is also an option, there are numerous car rental shops right next to the ferry terminals in Dodong and Jeodong. If you’re planning on renting a car you will need an international license, but this option does give you more freedom in getting around as the buses do not run super frequently.
See and Do
Snorkeling/Diving
Ulleungdo is a popular destination for snorkeling and diving, the ocean surrounding the island is a beautiful, clear, emerald green and is a registered marine protected area to protect the biodiversity. Both dolphins and occasionally whales can be seen in the waters around the island, the past history whaling in the area has made them more, scarce in the area. There are hostels and pensions that cater diving holidays to both Korean and foreign visitors. The water also has quite a high concentration of salt, so you can float quite well. I snorkeled at the base of my campsite and when I was stuck on the island for a few extra days was taught how to collect various sea creatures for dinner while snorkeling and free diving.
Nari Basin
The Nari Basin is a beautiful valley that is home to a small village, and a plethora of walking trails and some hikes up some of the smaller peaks on the island. Due to it being an extinct volcano the basin is extremely fertile and agriculture in the area revolves around medicinal plants, produce such as persimmons, pumpkins, and alfalfa. You can also see replica Tumak or thatched houses, which are the traditional houses of the island. I really enjoyed visiting the basin and hiking up the surrounding peaks, it was exceptionally beautiful, and the food served at the restaurants is delicious.
Dokdo Island
If you’ve journeyed to Ulleungdo, you may as well take the boat ride to see the disputed islands of Dokdo. Also called The Liancourt Rocks or Takeshima, this small group of islets consist of two main islets and about 35 smaller rocks. While Korea controls the islands, their sovereignty is disputed by Japan, this has made Dokdo a bit of a pilgrimage site for many Koreans who are eager to proclaim the rocks are Korean. Like Ulleungdo, the rocks are volcanic in nature, it’s estimated that they were formed 4.5 million years ago and are eroding
rapidly.
Dokdo Observatory
If you don’t fancy the boat ride to see Dokdo up close, another option is to visit the Dokdo Island Observatory and cable car. The cable car takes visitors to Manghyangbongpeak for a view of the island on clear days and is also a prime location for a stunning view of the sunrise.
Haengnam Coastal Walkway
The best way to soak in the islands unique rock formations, pebble beaches and ocean views is by taking a walk along the Haengnam Costal Walkway. The path winds from DodongPort to Haengnam Lighthouse, which has an observatory that showcases views of Jeodong Port, Chuam Cliff, and Gwaneumdo Island. Along the walkway you can often spot fishermen and divers collecting various sea creatures, bridges that make excellent Instagram pics, and a plethora of seaside restaurants that serve up fresh seafood.
Hike Seonginbong
Standing at 984 meters, Seonginbong is the tallest peak on the island. The mountain is
covered in dense primeval woodland which is designated as Natural Monument No.189. The woodland includes rare plants that are only found on in the central forest on Ulleungdo. On clear days the peak of Seonginbong provides a clear 360-degree view of the island and the neighboring smaller islands of Dokdo and Jukdo.
Bongnae Waterfall & Wind Cave
Bongnae is a three-tiered waterfall that stands 25 meters tall, and the flowing water brings a slight chill to the atmosphere, especially during the summer. Swimming in the waterfall is prohibited as it is the only source of fresh drinking water for residents. Close to the waterfall you can find Punghyeol, which are natural air vents which blow cool subterranean air up above ground. Around the Punghyeol is a cedar forest, which is a great spot for a picnic.
Cheonbu Underwater Observatory
Cheonbu is the bus terminal point on the far side of the island from Dodong, the pebble beach there is popular for swimming and there is also an underwater area at the end of the pier that allows you view the various fish and sea creatures swimming by. It reminded me a lot of the aquarium in Busan, but in a more natural environment and on a much smaller scale.
Gwaneumdo Island
At the far end of the road around Ulleungdo, is GwaneumdoIsland. A small island right off the coast of Ulleungdo and is connected by a large pedestrian suspencion bridge that was built in 2012. There is a scenic walking trail that winds through forests and the coast, on a clear day you can get great views of Ulleungdo. If you’re taking the bus, be aware that it runs very infrequently here, so be prepared for a long wait.
Eat
Squid
Being an island, Ulleungdo is known for seafood with most restaurants showcasing their
catch of the day in tanks outside. The seafood Ulleungdo is most well-known for is squid, it’s the main export and one of the islands mascots. It’s common to see wracks of squid drying around the island especially early in the morning after the fishermen come back in. Squid will turn up in all kinds of food on the island, I even had squid ink pizza while I was there.
Honghapbap 홍합밥
Another common local dish is honghapbap, which is mussels on top of a thick soupy rice, served with seaweed and sesame seeds.
Barnacle Noodle Soup 따개칼국수
This dish often is often served in a huge bowl and best when shared with friends, or strangers who have invited you to join them in my case. The dish is made of handmade knife-cut noodles, barnacle meat, potatoes, and seaweed along with tons of broth. If you’re not a fan of spicy food, this is a dish for you.
Pumpkin
The other mascot of Ullengdo is a pumpkin, and there are pumpkin plants all-over the island and are incorporated into a variety of dishes. My favorites were pumpkin and rice tea, pumpkin hotteok and pumpkin egg-bread.
Nari Basin Herbs
The medicinal herbs grown in the Nari Basin are unique to the island and give a slightly different taste to them due to these herbs. You can also find special beef that comes from cows that feed only on these herbs and it’s considered a delicacy.
Food Notes
If you’re a strict vegetarian or vegan, it can be challenging to find food in the restaurants on the island and you may want to consider cooking for yourself. If you are a flexitarian and will eat seafood if necessary, you’ll have an easier time.
Off the beaten path Ulleungdo is an amazing addition to any trip to Korea if time allows. The island is really different from the rest of Korea and has some beautiful and unique scenery. Give yourself some wiggle room
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